Jojoba
Chase Kempinski, PhD (chase@tritera.co)
This Botanical spotlight post is focused on one of the important ingredients in our Optimal Antioxidant Blend—jojoba oil. We use unrefined, organic jojoba oil which helps to ensure that we are obtaining the purest form of its unique lipid profile.
Jojoba plants on a farm.
Biology and Chemistry of Jojoba
Jojoba is the common name for Simmondsia chinensis, which grows as a shrub in Baja California and the Sonoran Desert. It exists as male and female plants, is drought-resistant, and individuals can live for over 200 years (1). It is most notable for its seeds which contain high amounts of oil. More specifically, this oil is mostly comprised of wax esters. Wax esters have had important uses for humans since antiquity as they are the main component of beeswax (2). It is rare for a plant to accumulate such large amounts of wax esters, which in jojoba can be 40-60% of the oil content (3). These wax esters are liquid at room temperature but will solidify at temperatures below 7°C. Jojoba is the only known plant to accumulate wax esters in such amount and is the only natural, sustainable source of these important lipids (4). Wax esters have been used for a variety of lubricant applications (such as in machinery) and were originally obtained primarily from sperm whale oil—which is not sustainable nor desirable (4). This is another example of an excellent plant-based source to replace use of an animal-derived product.
Jojoba fruit contains the seed from which the oil is obtained.
Jojoba Oil and Skincare
The wax esters impart the desirability of jojoba oil in dermatology and cosmetics. We have mentioned quite a few times in our blog posts that as we get older, the lipid content in our skin barrier decreases. When this is combined with a reduction in other natural moisturizing components, our skin is less hydrated. This can cause the normal packing of outer skin cells to be disrupted which can lead to skin irritation, dry skin, and signs of aging (5). While we are most interested in the great properties imparted by squalene, wax esters comprise 26% of the lipids on our skin (6). Thus, the nature of jojoba oil makes it a natural blend with the composition of our skin.
Jojoba oil has also been observed to stimulate wound healing, accelerating closure of scratch wounds and stimulating collagen biosynthesis (7). An observational study where respondents reported skin condition after using clay jojoba oil masks indicated a reduction in skin inflammation by measuring a 54% reduction in acne-associated lesions after six weeks of using the masks 2-3 times a week (8). The authors attribute the drying and cleansing effects of the clay masks but also the anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties of jojoba oil in achieving these results.
These data suggest that jojoba oil is an excellent oil for topical application. It completes a trifecta of moisturization, anti-inflammation, and antibacterial modes of action in protecting and soothing skin. The evidence mentioned regarding stimulation of collagen biosynthesis is something that also deserves further study. Collagen is an important protein in maintaining the elasticity of skin and damaged collagen can trigger a deleterious feedback loop through creation of oxidative stress which can cause further damage (9, 10).
We use jojoba oil in combination with squalene (another important natural oil on our skin) in our Optimal Antioxidant Serum. Along with the other ingredients, we think it does an excellent job of supplementing the skin barrier and supporting the skin against insults from the environment.
References
1. H. S. Gentry, The natural history of Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) and its cultural aspects. Econ. Bot. 12, 261–295 (1958).
2. A. P. Tulloch, The composition of beeswax and other waxes secreted by insects. Lipids 5, 247–258 (1970).
3. J. Busson-Breysse, M. Farines, J. Soulier, Jojoba wax: Its esters and some of its minor components. J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 71, 999–1002 (1994).
4. D. Sturtevant, et al., The genome of jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis): A taxonomically isolated species that directs wax ester accumulation in its seeds. Sci. Adv. 6, eaay3240 (2020).
5. A. Pappas, Epidermal surface lipids. Dermatoendocrinol. 1, 72–76 (2009).
6. A. R. Vaughn, A. K. Clark, R. K. Sivamani, V. Y. Shi, Natural Oils for Skin-Barrier Repair: Ancient Compounds Now Backed by Modern Science. Am. J. Clin. Dermatol. 19, 103–117 (2018).
7. E. Ranzato, S. Martinotti, B. Burlando, Wound healing properties of jojoba liquid wax: An in vitro study. J. Ethnopharmacol. 134, 443–449 (2011).
8. L. Meier, R. Stange, A. Michalsen, B. Uehleke, Clay jojoba oil facial mask for lesioned skin and mild acne-results of a prospective, observational pilot study. Forsch. Komplementarmed. 19, 75–79 (2012).
9. G. J. Fisher, et al., Collagen fragmentation promotes oxidative stress and elevates matrix metalloproteinase-1 in fibroblasts in aged human skin. Am. J. Pathol. 174, 101–114 (2009).
10. V. Marcos-Garcés, et al., Age-related dermal collagen changes during development, maturation and ageing - a morphometric and comparative study. J. Anat. 225, 98–108 (2014).
